A month in Addis Ababa

降落博莱机场别理会拉客的出租车司机：在应用里叫一辆 RIDE、Feres 或 Yango 的车。到大多数酒店需要 15 到 30 分钟。办 SIM 卡两家运营商，机场都有卖，凭护照办理。比较一下它们的游客套餐。换钱只在银行和持牌兑换处换钱；街头换汇是违法的。比较一下今天的银行汇率。

这一站的指南

Watch first · 旅人愛聞 Travel EvanEvan Vlog｜非洲入境初體驗｜衣索比亞觀光｜阿迪斯阿貝巴Addis Ababa｜衣索比亞航空ET638｜因傑拉Injera｜Tomoca咖啡｜衣索比亞明信片｜非洲物價好便宜｜Ethiopia｜

Take a ride to your hotel 25 min

Take a ride to your hotel

25 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to your hotel· 25 min

Your hotel · Mid-range

Ras Amba Hotel

Arat Kilo

A calm hillside hotel above Arat Kilo with views over the city, close to the museums and Piassa.

住在哪里博莱是最方便的落脚点：离机场近，吃饭和打车都方便。付款和小费大多数情况下用比尔现金。大酒店可以刷卡；telebirr 和 M-PESA 几乎到处都能用。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Take a ride to National Museum of Ethiopia 5 min

Take a ride to National Museum of Ethiopia

5 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to National Museum of Ethiopia· 5 min

Week 1

Meet Lucy at the National Museum

Arat Kilo

The 3.2 million year old skeleton everyone comes for, plus royal thrones and early art. An hour is enough.

Time there: 1–2 小时 Small foreigner fee

Local tip: 部分节假日闭馆。

这一站的指南

Watch first · TravelStory生菜火山闯世界埃塞俄比亚：在首都大学里遇到歌手拍MV！国家博物馆参观Lucy | 穿越非洲纪录片 Day22 | Ethiopia Addis Ababa

Walk to Holy Trinity Cathedral 15 min

Walk to Holy Trinity Cathedral

15 min

Short and easy on foot. Keep your phone in a front pocket.

Walk to Holy Trinity Cathedral· 15 min

Week 1

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Arat Kilo

Haile Selassie's tomb and the city's grandest stained glass, a short walk down from the museum.

Time there: 1 小时 Visitor fee

Local tip: 穿着要得体；按要求脱鞋。

基督徒旅行者最古老的基督教国家之一，几乎各个教派都有：正教、天主教、新教等等，还有英语礼拜。

这一站的指南

Take a ride to Yod Abyssinia 25 min

Take a ride to Yod Abyssinia

25 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Yod Abyssinia· 25 min

Week 1 · evening

Dinner show at Yod Abyssinia

Bole

Music and dances from every region over a big shared platter, ending with a coffee ceremony. Book a table.

Dinner and show

美食和外卖该吃什么、喝什么，配有照片，还有把餐食和日用杂货送到门口的应用。付款和小费大多数情况下用比尔现金。大酒店可以刷卡；telebirr 和 M-PESA 几乎到处都能用。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Watch first · Mark Wiens亚的斯亚贝巴终极埃塞俄比亚美食之旅

Day 2

Take a ride to Entoto Park 25 min

Take a ride to Entoto Park

25 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Entoto Park· 25 min

Week 1

Entoto Park and Entoto Maryam

Entoto hills

Eucalyptus forest 3,000 m up: trails, viewpoints over the city and the church where Menelik was crowned. Bring a layer.

Time there: 半天 Small fee

Local tip: 海拔更高（约 3,000 米），也更凉。带件外套。

基督徒旅行者最古老的基督教国家之一，几乎各个教派都有：正教、天主教、新教等等，还有英语礼拜。天气海拔 2,355 米，全年气候温和。6 月到 9 月是大雨季；从 10 月起干燥晴朗。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Take a ride to St George's Cathedral 25 min

Take a ride to St George's Cathedral

25 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to St George's Cathedral· 25 min

Week 1

St George's Cathedral

Piassa

The octagonal church where Menelik gave thanks for Adwa, with a small museum of crowns and paintings.

Time there: 45 分钟 Small fee

Local tip: 参观后去皮亚萨的老街走走。

基督徒旅行者最古老的基督教国家之一，几乎各个教派都有：正教、天主教、新教等等，还有英语礼拜。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Walk to Tomoca Coffee 10 min

Walk to Tomoca Coffee

10 min

Short and easy on foot. Keep your phone in a front pocket.

Walk to Tomoca Coffee· 10 min

Week 1

A macchiato at Tomoca

Piassa

Roasting since 1953. Stand at the bar like the regulars and buy a bag of beans to take home.

Time there: 30 分钟 From 40 Br

Local tip: 买密封包装的咖啡豆带回家。

美食和外卖该吃什么、喝什么，配有照片，还有把餐食和日用杂货送到门口的应用。

这一站的指南

Day 3

Take a ride to Unity Park 5 min

Take a ride to Unity Park

5 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Unity Park· 5 min

Week 1

Unity Park

Arat Kilo

Menelik's palace grounds: the banquet hall, the old throne room, gardens and a small zoo. Closed on Mondays.

Time there: 2–3 小时 USD 20, or 50 with the palace and a guide

Local tip: 周二至周日开放，售票时间上午 9 点至下午 4 点。周一闭园。

这一站的指南

Watch first · Wode Maya埃塞俄比亚首都正在蜕变为世界级城市

Walk to Fendika Cultural Center 15 min

Walk to Fendika Cultural Center

15 min

Short and easy on foot. Keep your phone in a front pocket.

Walk to Fendika Cultural Center· 15 min

Week 1 · evening

Azmari night at Fendika

Kazanchis

Live azmari singers, traditional dance and Ethio-jazz in an art-filled house. Tip the singer if they sing about you.

Time there: 晚上 Entry and drinks

Local tip: 如果歌手唱到了你，给他小费。

付款和小费大多数情况下用比尔现金。大酒店可以刷卡；telebirr 和 M-PESA 几乎到处都能用。拍摄和视频博客哪些可以拍，哪些地方不准用相机，无人机审批，以及先征得别人同意。

这一站的指南

Day 4

Take a ride to Meskel Square 10 min

Take a ride to Meskel Square

10 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Meskel Square· 10 min

Week 1

Meskel Square and the riverside

Meskel Square

The city's huge public square, with fountains and new riverside paths below it. Bonfires light it up at Meskel in September.

Time there: 30 分钟 Free

Local tip: 车流量大；过马路要小心。

这一站的指南

Cycle to Friendship Park 10 min

Cycle to Friendship Park

10 min

Flat riverside paths, away from the traffic.

Cycle to Friendship Park· 10 min

Week 1

Bike the riverside to Friendship Park

Arat Kilo

The new riverside parks run from Meskel Square up to Friendship Park on flat, paved paths away from traffic. The calmest ride in the city.

Free

这一站的指南

Watch first · Wode Maya埃塞俄比亚首都正在蜕变为世界级城市

Take the light rail to Merkato 10 min

Take the light rail to Merkato

10 min

A few birr a ride. Buy a ticket at the station window.

Take the light rail to Merkato· 10 min

Week 1

Merkato with a guide

Merkato

One of Africa's biggest open-air markets: spices, baskets, recycled metalwork. Go with a guide and keep your phone in a front pocket.

Time there: 2 小时 Free; agree the guide fee first

Local tip: 跟当地向导一起去；贵重物品不要带。

购物商场明码标价，市场要讲价，网购就用 telebirr 里的 Zemen Gebeya。拿到东西之前绝不要付钱。旅行团和向导经营多年的持牌旅行社，以及付钱前如何查验向导的执照。

这一站的指南

Watch first · 敬大宝环球旅行之埃塞俄比亚篇，本期内容：当地特色吃生肉，非洲最大露天市场和无处不在的咖啡馆

Day 6

Drive to Bishoftu with a driver About 1 hour by road

Drive to Bishoftu with a driver

About 1 hour by road

Hire a trusted driver through your hotel or tour operator, and travel in daylight.

Drive to Bishoftu with a driver· About 1 hour by road

Week 1

Day out at the Bishoftu crater lakes

1 hour from Addis

An hour down the expressway: lakeside lunch, birds and boat rides on Lake Babogaya or Kuriftu. Check current advice first.

Time there: 一整天或过夜 Lodges approx. USD 80–250 a night

Local tip: 走高速公路很方便。出发前查看最新建议。

Check your government's travel advice for this trip the week you go.

去亚的斯亚贝巴以外乘坐埃塞俄比亚航空，在 Mengedegna 应用里订长途大巴，或者坐火车去德雷达瓦。

这一站的指南

Day 9

Fly to Hawassa 45 min flight

Fly to Hawassa

45 min flight

Ethiopian Airlines. Flew in on Ethiopian? Ask about the cheaper domestic fare.

Fly to Hawassa· 45 min flight

Week 2

Fly to Hawassa

Rift Valley, 45 min flight

A lakeside city in the Rift Valley: the fish market at dawn, monkeys in Amora Gedel park and a boat on the lake. Check your government's advice first.

Flight approx. USD 70–200

Check your government's travel advice for this trip the week you go.

去亚的斯亚贝巴以外乘坐埃塞俄比亚航空，在 Mengedegna 应用里订长途大巴，或者坐火车去德雷达瓦。

这一站的指南

Day 11

Fly to Addis 30 min

Fly to Addis

30 min

Ethiopian Airlines. Flew in on Ethiopian? Ask about the cheaper domestic fare.

Fly to Addis· 30 min

Back to your hotel · Mid-range

Ras Amba Hotel

Arat Kilo

A calm hillside hotel above Arat Kilo with views over the city, close to the museums and Piassa.

Day 12

Take a ride to Addis Sport Park 10 min

Take a ride to Addis Sport Park

10 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Addis Sport Park· 10 min

Week 2

A run at Addis Sport Park

Urael

A public sports park east of Meskel Square for a jog, a workout or a pickup game. Go early: Addis is 2,350 m up and the morning air is cool.

Free

这一站的指南

Take a ride to Zoma Museum 25 min

Take a ride to Zoma Museum

25 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Zoma Museum· 25 min

Week 2

Zoma Museum

Mexico

An artist-built museum of mud-and-straw walls, gardens and a café. Check opening days before you go.

Time there: 1–2 小时 Entry fee

Local tip: 去之前先查好开放日；有私人活动时会闭馆。

这一站的指南

Day 13

Take a ride to Gullele Botanic Garden 30 min

Take a ride to Gullele Botanic Garden

30 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Gullele Botanic Garden· 30 min

Week 2

Gullele Botanic Garden

Gullele

Quiet trails through native trees and a great view west over the city. Few people, lots of birds.

Time there: 2–3 小时 Small fee

Local tip: 穿双好鞋；步道起伏较大，山上也更凉。

这一站的指南

Take a ride to Galani Coffee 55 min

Take a ride to Galani Coffee

55 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Galani Coffee· 55 min

Week 2

Galani Coffee

Gerji

A specialty café and gallery that runs cuppings of single-origin Ethiopian beans. Ask for a tasting.

Coffee and tasting

美食和外卖该吃什么、喝什么，配有照片，还有把餐食和日用杂货送到门口的应用。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Day 16

Take the train to Dire Dawa Most of a day by train

Take the train to Dire Dawa

Most of a day by train

Ethio-Djibouti Railway from Furi-Lebu station. Book on the official portal.

Take the train to Dire Dawa· Most of a day by train

Week 3

Train to Dire Dawa

East, by the Ethio-Djibouti Railway

The electric railway leaves from Furi-Lebu station. Book on the official portal with telebirr, or at the station with your passport. Check advice for the east first.

Book on bookingedr.et

Check your government's travel advice for this trip the week you go.

去亚的斯亚贝巴以外乘坐埃塞俄比亚航空，在 Mengedegna 应用里订长途大巴，或者坐火车去德雷达瓦。

这一站的指南

Day 17

Drive to Harar with a driver About 1 hour by road

Drive to Harar with a driver

About 1 hour by road

Hire a trusted driver through your hotel or tour operator, and travel in daylight.

Drive to Harar with a driver· About 1 hour by road

Week 3

Harar and the hyena men

Old walled city, 1 hour from Dire Dawa

Islam's fourth holy city: 82 mosques in a walled old town, coffee and baskets, and hyena feeding at dusk. Go with a guide and a trusted driver.

Agree the guide fee first

Check your government's travel advice for this trip the week you go.

穆斯林旅行者亚的斯亚贝巴各处都有清真寺，穆斯林肉店的清真肉到处都有。用 Musalla 找礼拜场所。去亚的斯亚贝巴以外乘坐埃塞俄比亚航空，在 Mengedegna 应用里订长途大巴，或者坐火车去德雷达瓦。

这一站的指南

Watch first · Drew Binsky我在埃塞俄比亚遇到了 500 只野生鬣狗

Day 19

Fly to Addis 50 min

Fly to Addis

50 min

Ethiopian Airlines. Flew in on Ethiopian? Ask about the cheaper domestic fare.

Fly to Addis· 50 min

Back to your hotel · Mid-range

Ras Amba Hotel

Arat Kilo

A calm hillside hotel above Arat Kilo with views over the city, close to the museums and Piassa.

Day 21

Take a ride to Shiro Meda market 15 min

Take a ride to Shiro Meda market

15 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Shiro Meda market· 15 min

Week 3

Shiro Meda weavers' market

North Addis

Hand-woven scarves and traditional dresses straight from the weavers. Haggle gently.

Time there: 1–2 小时 From 600 Br

Local tip: 手工织的更贵；掂掂分量。

购物商场明码标价，市场要讲价，网购就用 telebirr 里的 Zemen Gebeya。拿到东西之前绝不要付钱。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Take a ride to Kategna 35 min

Take a ride to Kategna

35 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Kategna· 35 min

Week 3

Lunch at Kategna

Bole

Traditional food done well: try the kategna (toasted injera with spiced butter) and a shiro. Vegan plates too.

approx. 250–1,200 Br

纯素食旅行者常被称为纯素食者的天堂：不含肉、奶制品和蛋的正教斋期食物几乎到处都有。美食和外卖该吃什么、喝什么，配有照片，还有把餐食和日用杂货送到门口的应用。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Watch first · Mark WiensKategna：不可错过的埃塞俄比亚美食

Day 23

Fly to Arba Minch 1 hour flight

Fly to Arba Minch

1 hour flight

Ethiopian Airlines. Flew in on Ethiopian? Ask about the cheaper domestic fare.

Fly to Arba Minch· 1 hour flight

Week 4

Fly to Arba Minch

South, 1 hour flight

Crocodiles and hippos on Lake Chamo, then up to the Dorze villages for beehive huts and weaving. Go with a licensed operator.

Flight approx. USD 70–200

Check your government's travel advice for this trip the week you go.

去亚的斯亚贝巴以外乘坐埃塞俄比亚航空，在 Mengedegna 应用里订长途大巴，或者坐火车去德雷达瓦。

这一站的指南

Day 26

Fly to Addis 50 min

Fly to Addis

50 min

Ethiopian Airlines. Flew in on Ethiopian? Ask about the cheaper domestic fare.

Fly to Addis· 50 min

Back to your hotel · Mid-range

Ras Amba Hotel

Arat Kilo

A calm hillside hotel above Arat Kilo with views over the city, close to the museums and Piassa.

Day 28

Take a ride to Bole Medhane Alem Cathedral 20 min

Take a ride to Bole Medhane Alem Cathedral

20 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.

Take a ride to Bole Medhane Alem Cathedral· 20 min

Week 4

Bole Medhane Alem Cathedral

Bole

The second-largest cathedral in Africa. Sunday mornings fill the grounds with white shawls and chanting.

Time there: 30–45 分钟 Free

Local tip: 遮住肩膀和膝盖。

这一站的指南

Walk to Bole Road 5 min

Walk to Bole Road

5 min

Short and easy on foot. Keep your phone in a front pocket.

Walk to Bole Road· 5 min

Week 4 · last night

Bole Road at night

Bole

Rooftop bars, lounges and late food on Bole's main strip. Take a ride home rather than walking late.

Time there: 晚上 Varies

Local tip: 晚上即使距离很近也用打车应用。

旅行安全吗？亚的斯亚贝巴很平静，但有些地区并不太平。根据英国、美国和日本的旅行建议，看看该去哪里、该避开什么。市内出行RIDE、Feres 和 Yango 能用；Uber 不能用。用现金付给司机。

这一站的指南

Take a ride to Bole Airport 10 min

Take a ride to Bole Airport

10 min

Book it in a ride-hailing app: the fare shows upfront, so there's nothing to haggle.